Friday, February 20, 2009

Iranians are friendly, the land spectacular

Iranians are friendly, the land spectacular

Friday, February 20, 2009


I went because: I had heard many negative things about Iran from our media and I wanted to see and experience it for myself. Also, the art and architecture are so great.



Don't miss: Persepolis - this place is amazing. It was the Persian capital between 500 to 300 B.C. And they are still excavating.

Don't bother: Worrying about how Americans are treated. The Iranian people are very interested in speaking with Americans and learning about us. (And no alcohol for three weeks is not unbearable.)

Coolest souvenir: Two small (old, not new) Persian rugs.

Saturday, February 7, 2009

An antique rug. An antique rug. Photograph by: Museum of Costume and Textile, Museum of Costume and Textile It started serendipitously nine years a

An antique rug.
An antique rug.

Photograph by: Museum of Costume and Textile, Museum of Costume and Textile

An antique rug.

An antique rug.

Photograph by: Museum of Costume and Textile, Museum of Costume and Textile

It started serendipitously nine years ago. Giuseppe Di Leo and Jim Hampton, friends and fellow teachers at a Montreal high school, attended an auction of oriental rugs.

“We’d seen ads in the newspaper and wanted to know more,” Di Leo said. They each bought a rug and, says Di Leo, “probably paid too much.”

The experience implanted in them what Di Leo calls “the rug bug.” The two friends began studying and learning everything they could about oriental rugs and then they began collecting them.

Some of the rugs from their collections are on show until March 29 at the Museum of Costume and Textile of Quebec in St. Lambert.

The rugs hail from the Caucasus, the geographic region between the Black and Caspian seas that includes Armenia, Azerbaijan, Dagehestan and Georgia.

The exhibition features 27 rugs, on loan from 10 collectors who are members of the Montreal Oriental Rug Society.

“This is a focused exhibition of rugs from that particular region,” says Di Leo, a co-curator of the exhibition with Hampton. “Caucasian rugs feature geometrical patterns: stars, flowers, plants and stylized animals.”

A few are kilims, meaning that they’re flat-woven, and the rest are pile rugs, he said.

And because they’re antiques, ranging in age from 100 to 150 years old, the colours come from natural vegetable dyes. “When you look at them, you’re mesmerized by the colour and geometric shapes, by the designs and materials,” Di Leo said.

Hampton describes himself as an eclectic collector. “I like Persian, Turkish, Caucasian and Turkomen rugs,” he said, adding that as a “rug hunter,” he finds his best treasures at estate sales. “Washington and Boston are where the really avid collectors are,” he said. “But the Montreal Oriental Rug Society has been going on since the 1970s, and we’re resurrecting it now.”

The society began having shows at Di Leo’s urging. Now an art teacher at Dawson College, he co-curated a show at the CEGEP last year.

Di Leo says he and his friend educated themselves about the rugs by reading, attending auctions and visiting rug dealers. “We wanted to know why there’s such a large price range in Oriental rugs,” he said. “To understand a rug, you must understand its structure, its colours and whether the warp and weft are in cotton or wool.”

The antique rugs were made by nomadic peoples. “These were individuals who were not sophisticated artistically but they were very strong in how they used colour and pattern. For them, creating rugs is an intuitive process,” Di Leo said. “The rugs speak to me. I wonder what the weavers were thinking while making them. Every knot has a thought in it. This is a matriarchal industry that gets passed down from mother to daughter.”

Di Leo and Hampton will be at the museum with several other collectors on Saturday, Feb. 7 to discuss the rugs. Anyone who owns an oriental rug and has questions they’d like answered is invited to take the carpets to the museum that day.

The Museum of Costume and Textile of Quebec is at 349 Riverside St., St. Lambert. It’s open from Tuesday to Friday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekends. Admission is $4.

Friday, January 30, 2009

Goodacre Moves to Dockray Hall trading estate

Carpet firm on the move

8:10am Friday 30th January 2009


SOUTH Lakeland carpet retailer Goodacre is to move from its Aynam Road factory shop in Kendal to new premises on the Dockray Hall trading estate.

Company boss Mike Cornish said the relocation would show customers that Goodacre had “moved on” from its past.

The business, which once manufactured carpets and in its heyday employed 150 people, was bought by Mr Cornish after going into administration several years ago.

The new premises will provide more room for the firm’s specialist range of oriental rugs.


Carpet firm on the move Carpet firm on the move

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

SKINNER Bolton is Moving to Marlborough, MA

SKINNER Bolton is Moving
to Marlborough, MA

Monday, February 2, 2009

New Address:
Skinner, Inc.
274 Cedar Hill Street
Marlborough, MA 01752
tel: 508.970.3000 fax: 508.970.3100

Skinner's Boston Gallery remains at 63 Park Plaza, Boston, MA

If you have questions regarding property pick-ups, please contact Skinner
in advance at 978.779.6241

Friday, January 23, 2009

Karagheusian's Gulistan Rugs

Memories of A. & M. Karagheusian

by Jack Ayvadian

Published: Friday January 23, 2009 in The Armenian-American Experience

The Gulistan label on the back of a vintage Karagheusian rug. The showroom on New York's posh Fifth Avenue was designed by Tiffany Studios. www.njhouseholdgoods.ecrater.com
Galleries
A. & M. Karagheusian
View Gallery

Freehold, N.J. - The name sounds like an Armenian college. Actually it belonged to the brothers Arshag and Miran (Mihran). Long before the Manoogians, Kerkorians, and Cafesjians practiced their philanthropy, the Karagheusian brothers served as president and treasurer of the Armenian General Benevolent Union.

In Turkey the Karagheusians' rug trade goes back to 1818. As the 19th century drew to a close the brothers fled the persecution which culminated in the Armenian Genocide. In 1896 they opened a small office in Manchester, England, to export cotton cloth to the Middle East.

Sensing the enormous potential of the American market, the Karagheusians set up a one-room office in New York City to import English cotton goods. However, they could not compete with American mills, which were producing cotton cloth of equal quality at lower cost. The brothers tried other short-lived ventures, such as importing mocha coffee and canary seed from Arabia.

In 1899 the brothers tried importing oriental rugs from Persia, which turned out to be a profitable venture. Their Fifth Avenue showroom was designed by Tiffany Studios. The next step was to manufacture their own orientals in America.

Freehold, New Jersey, a farm town rich in Revolutionary War history, was the chosen site. Here General George Washington had turned his retreating troops around and had chased the British back to New York.
The House of Lords

In 1904 the Karagheusians took over the former Rothschild shirt factory and drew up a contract with the townspeople. Freehold would pay the taxes for five years, and in several years' time the company would employ upward of 500 workers, most of them locals.

The brothers purchased power looms from Kidderminster, England, the center of the carpet industry. They also imported the first weavers and their families. With a part of England transplanted to Freehold, one wing of the plant was called "The House of Lords." A large spinning mill was built in Roselle Park, New Jersey.

In 1928 the Karagheusians developed a secret chemical process to add a soft sheen to their rugs, emulating the hand-knotted orientals from the Middle East. "Gulistan" ("Garden of Roses"), the brand name of this new rug, would be applied to all products and, eventually, the company itself.

High demand for the Gulistan rug in the Art Deco period called for tripling the size of the plant. More weavers, some scarred by World War I, were imported from England, bringing their frugal habits with them. Some chewed tobacco while operating the loom and before quitting time would place the wad on the window sill to dry in the sun. On the way home, they would put it in their pipe and smoke it. Double your pleasure?
Nationalized industry

The company's mill in Tientsin (Tianjin), China, built in 1923, became the world's largest producer of handmade Chinese rugs, employing 4,000 weavers. The Japanese seized it shortly after the attack on Pearl Harbor. After Japan surrendered, the Chinese Communists overran Tientsin. The company was never able to regain its nationalized property.

World War Two brought drastic changes to domestic operations as well. As part of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt's "Arsenal of Democracy," the company converted its looms to produce millions of yards of duck cloth, thousands of gun covers, tarpaulin, and machine parts for the Navy. Five hundred employees served in the military. A plane spotter's station was built on the fifth-floor roof and staffed by volunteers until the end of the Korean War.

Coming home from World War Two after three years with the Navy Sea Bees, I answered Karagheusian's call for "help wanted." After passing a color test, I spent a week practicing knot-tying. I started as a creeler tying in bobbins. If you tied a slip knot, the weaver might throw a bobbin at your head. Next I became a sparehand, tying in large beams of cotton or jute. Because I could type, I helped in the office.

As more veterans returned and the demand for housing increased, the expression "wall-to-wall carpet" came into use. New looms, twelve and fifteen feet wide, were installed in the greatly expanded plant, tended by 2,000 workers around the clock.
Fala's favorite corner

The company was a leading manufacturer of commercial carpet. Topping the list was a 20,000-square-yard order for Radio City Music Hall in 1932. Designing the fiddle pattern took six weeks. Very strict specs called for a 36-inch width, ten rows to the inch, and a cut pile over one inch deep. Years later, when a replacement was ordered, an estimated 55 million people had walked on the original installation.

Actress Jean Harlow sent a lock of her platinum hair so her carpet could be matched to it. Another order was filled for the actor Spencer Tracy.

The company carpeted the Supreme Court building in Washington, D.C., and Pullman railroad cars, including F.D.R.'s private coach. A framed section of that carpet, labeled "Fala's favorite corner" after the President's beloved dog, was hung in the entrance to the Freehold plant.

Five miles of carpet were made for the new 45-story Socony-Mobil building in 1956. Two years later the company was awarded the order for the new Boeing 707 jets, again with tight specs as to weight and acoustical qualities. For safety purposes, a thin wire was wrapped with every fourth row of yarn.

In 1958, nine thousand square yards of carpet was ordered for the new Moore-McCormack luxury liners, the S.S. Brasil and Argentina.
The Revered Boss

Meanwhile, the South was wooing northern mills with modern, one-story plants, the proximity of the cotton fields, and, most of all, no unions. In 1952, the company acquired a tufting plant in Albany, Georgia. Five years later, another plant was purchased in Aberdeen, North Carolina.

Despite denials, the Freehold workers were getting the message. They said this would not have happened if the Karagheusians were still around. They spoke of the brothers with reverence, remembering the Depression years, when the company sent coal trucks to workers' homes.

In 1953 I was promoted to assistant foreman, then foreman of the Narrow Jacquard department, which operated about a hundred looms. It was so loud that light bulbs were placed on the walls, blinking signals as a way to page the workers.

The rug mill was closed in 1961. Four years later, the company was sold to J. P. Stevens.

The freight trains and trucks carrying Gulistan rugs to all corners of the country have long since vanished over Freehold's horizon. The looms lost their voice many years ago. As native son Bruce Springsteen sang in "My Hometown":

They're closing down the textile mill across the railroad tracks
Foreman says these jobs are going, boys, and they ain't coming back

It's been 47 years since I saw that blinking bulb. I still miss that place. Thank you, brothers, for 14 great years.

Further reading:
www.textilehistory.org/KaragheusianGulistan.html
newstranscript.gmnews.com/News/2000/0920/Front_Page/08.html
www.gulistan.com/html/about_gulistan.html

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Noted Rug Collector Dies Edmund de Rothschild

Edmund de Rothschild dies at 93

Isfahan Rugs: Isphahan Carpet ex Edmond de Rothschild

By ROBERT BARR, Associated Press Writer Robert Barr, Associated Press Writer Wed Jan 21, 10:30 am ET

LONDON – Edmund de Rothschild, former chairman of N.M. Rothschild and Sons merchant bank and a noted horticulturist, has died at age 93.
De Rothschild died on Jan. 17 at his home, Exbury House, in Hampshire, England, the family said. The cause of death was not announced.
He joined the family bank in London in 1939 and directed its operations after his uncle Anthony suffered a stroke in 1955. He was named senior partner in 1960 and elevated to chairman in 1970.
De Rothschild oversaw the family firm's evolution to a modern institution, ending its private partnership status in 1970. He served as chairman until 1975.
He has been described as being "a banker by hobby and a gardener by profession," like his father.
However, de Rothschild was closely involved in postwar reconstruction in Japan, and received that country's Order of the Sacred Treasure (1st class). He also took a personal role in raising funds for a large hydroelectric power station at Churchill Falls Canada.
De Rothschild restored Exbury Gardens, a 260-acre (105-hectare) woodland garden which had been neglected after the death of his father, Lionel, in 1942. The gardens were opened to the public in 1955.
De Rothschild developed the Solent Range of Exbury deciduous azaleas, and produced several dozen rhododendron hybrids. He received the Victorian Medal of Honor, the highest award of the Royal Horticultural Society.
In his autobiography, "A Gilt-Edged Life," de Rothschild recalled that he was sometimes a target of anti-Semitism while he was in school.
He also related how his father was offended by a friend from Cambridge University who visited the family home and spoke glowingly of his visit to Nazi Germany.
The father wrote to the visitor's mother saying, "Your son comes to stay in my house, shoots my pheasants, drinks my champagne, smokes my cigars and tells me there is a lot to be said for Hitler."
Edmund de Rothschild is survived by two sons and two daughters from his marriage to Elizabeth Lentner, who died in 1980; and by his second wife, Anne Harrison.
The family planned a private funeral.

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Important New Research on Yellow Dyes

Contact: Ann Marie Menting or Cory Hatch
amenting@bu.edu
617-358-1240
Boston University

Boston University chemists probe secrets in ancient textile dyes from China, Peru

Chemists journey to Gobi region for samples, discover novel dye in textiles from Peru

(Boston) -- Although searching for 3,000-year-old mummy textiles in tombs under the blazing sun of a western Chinese desert may seem more Indiana Jones than analytical chemist, two Boston University researchers recently did just that. Traveling along the ancient Silk Road in Xinjiang Province on their quest, they found the ancient fabrics – and hit upon a research adventure that combined chemistry, archaeology, anthropology, botany, and art.

The chemists, Richard Laursen, a professor in the Boston University Department of Chemistry, and Xian Zhang, a chemistry graduate student, have refined a technique that helps archaeologists and anthropologists identify the plant species that ancient people used to make fabric dyes. Their technique has not only provided researchers with a new, more powerful tool for analyzing previously known dye types, it also has led to the discovery of at least one never-before described dye. In addition, the BU chemists have started a catalogue of plant sample characteristics for use by dye researchers around the world.

Historically, researchers have used a hydrochloric acid mixture to extract the delicate dyes from fabrics such as wool and silk. But, according to Laursen, hydrochloric acid cleaves glycosidic linkages, the bonds that hold sugar-like molecules to many dye molecules. Without these sugars, researchers lose valuable clues to which plants were used to give the dyes their color.

Keeping these clues intact is especially important when analyzing yellow, flavonoid dyes, not only because such dyes are chemically more delicate than red or blue dyes, but also because they can be derived from a greater variety of different plant sources -- from onion skins to pagoda tree buds.

Laursen and Zhang tested dye extraction methods using both ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and formic acid instead of hydrochloric acid. These "gentler" extraction solutions leave the glycosidic linkages in place. The chemists analyzed the dye extracts using a combination of high-performance liquid chromatography, mass spectrometry, and a diode array detector to determine their solubility properties, molecular weight, and exact color absorption in nanometers.

The researchers have already put their new method to the test, even discovering a new type of dye component, a flavonoid sulfate, in textiles found with 1,000-year-old mummies in Peru.

"Nobody could have seen the flavonoid sulfate with the old method," says Laursen. "Every time we analyze something we find something new. It's really kind of exciting."

On a recent trip to China, Laursen and Zhang obtained textile samples from yet another mummy. The chemists were attending a Getty Conservation Institute-sponsored conference at Dunhuang, a town at the edge of the Gobi Desert. A site near the town is honeycombed with caves containing ancient Buddhist art. While at the conference, the BU chemists joined an expedition into the Takla Makan (the name means, "You go in, but you don't come out.") desert. Chinese researchers found the fabric at a Takla Makan burial site, and Zhang, a native of China, convinced a Chinese archaeologist to give her tiny samples of the 3,000-year-old cloth.

According to Laursen, the fabric, and the person entombed with it, are of Indo-European origin, probably linked to ancient migrations west through Central Asia. He plans a trip this spring to collect plants from Central Asia and nearby countries like Turkey, Iran, and Uzbekistan for a chemical comparison with the fabric's dye to find out more about the mummy's origin.

"The people in the area have a long tradition of making carpets and textiles," says Laursen, "there is very little known about what plants were used to dye them. We hope to fill this void by collecting as much plant material as we can."

The plant samples he collects will join hundreds of others in a dye "fingerprint" database that the BU scientists are creating for use by researchers around the globe.

"You get a characteristic spectrum of dye components," Laursen explains. "If we had this library, maybe we could figure out what was used in our Chinese samples. That type of information would be of use to archaeologists and anthropologists who are trying to figure out migration patterns and technologies of ancient people."

###
The researchers' paper appears in the April 1 issue of Analytical Chemistry. Laursen and Zhang are scientists in Boston University's Department of Chemistry, part of the College and Graduate School of Arts and Sciences. Researchers in the Department of Chemistry investigate questions in theoretical chemistry, chemical physics, photochemistry, inorganic and organic chemistry, physical chemistry, and biochemistry. Boston University, with an enrollment of more than 29,000 in its 17 schools and colleges, is the fourth-largest independent university in the nation.